André early. Prepare the motorcycle. Tar with rubber 14 yellow drums in the back. It is not an easy maneuver, but it is accustomed. Seeing it, it seems simple to pile the containers. Now they are empty. The first leg will be relatively comfortable.
André lives in a town north of Lomé. A couple of times a week repeat the operation. Adjust the load and part towards Nigeria. To get there you have to cross Benin. It drives on secondary roads. Many times dirt roads. Thus avoids police officers who would ask for money. They know that what it does is illegal and take advantage of it. It also dodges the official border crossings for the same reason. But there is always an agent who knows the routes that young people as he follows and bets under a tree waiting for motorcycles to pass. In exchange for some tickets they let them continue. It is the small tax that must be paid. However, André complains that more and more are those who are dedicated to extorting them. That is why he looks for more hidden roads, less known. Which is more time to reach your destination.
Nigeria entry is the most complicated. You have to cross a small river. To do this, raise the motorcycle in a boat. Once on the other shore, it approaches one of the gas stations that sell fuel to these smugglers. It usually has to queue for a few hours. When he manages to fill his 14 drums, he gets back to the motorcycle. The balances begin again so that everyone fit and the vehicle does not break down one side. There are 280 liters of gasoline who have to transport back to their people.
The return is harder than the first leg. Upon arriving at the river, the drums must go down, pass them in the boat. Then the motorcycle. And re -adjust everything before leaving. The weight and danger that any accident can cause everything to jump into flames forces him to drive much more slowly. Make several stops to rest. The effort is great.
Back to his town, pour the gasoline in a liter bottles that previously contained liquors or in Damajuanas of five. Then his wife sells them. The containers are exposed on a wooden table. A board at the foot of the road announces the price. The main clients are motorcycle drivers. Many of them taxi drivers. They buy a bottle. Enough for several races. When they get some money, after transporting some customers, they return for a new load. From time to time, for some car and, then, the woman takes out the biggest containers. Five liters give enough kilometers.
André rests one day or two. Then recommend your routine. Upload the drums to the motorcycle, dodge police and reach the gas station. In Nigeria, gasoline is much cheaper and André gets a good benefit with her business.
In the upper image, André’s motorcycle loaded with empty drums before leaving Nigeria. Photography: Chema Caballero.
